February 26, 2010 - Friday Day 3

Going to the Extremes in Bangkok

Maya had Mother watch on Friday. Brett had to stay home and attend to paperwork around getting enrolled in a program in Sussex, England so he and Maya can live together while she is getting her Masters Degree there. He also had to oversee the distribution of the belongings they had posted and sold over the Internet in preparation of their permanent departure from Thailand 10 days after my visit ends. Since the three of us will be traveling to different regions of Thailand for the majority of my stay the 4 days in Bangkok had to be used wisely.

So after breakfast at the little restaurant on Soi 6 Maya and I set off to participate in the refugee visit she'd asked me earlier if I would like to participate in. In anticipation of the visit I'd picked up a couple sets of jacks (a small rubber ball with 10 plastic 'jacks' that you try to sweep up between bouncing and catching the little ball.) to give to the children and use as a conversation piece. I thought we would be having lunch with them and giving them a chance to practice their English. It wasn't quite like that.

Anyway, we dash off to make the 10 a.m. sign-in time. After hoofing it to the train platforms we took two different Sky Trains in quick succession during which time Maya explains to me that we are going to the Bangkok Immigration Detention Center which is really jail for the people that have overstayed their Visa limitation. People come from countries experiencing bad economic or violent times on Tourist Visas with the hopes of gaining refugee status. Many do not get through the paperwork or are denied refugee status but they stay anyway. They have left Sri Lanka, Somalia and the other countries with no intention of returning and their home countries are aware they have filed for refugee status so returning will not be pleasant to say the least. The 'detention center' is segregated. Men and woman only see each other in the visiting area at such times that they each have a visitor. So we were going to sign in to visit a couple so they would have the opportunity to see and talk to one another...not so much us.

MOTORCYCLE TAXI

As we left the train platform Maya asked me how I felt about motorcycles. I told her I didn't have any problem with them and she explained we needed to take motorcycle taxi's to get to the Center in time. Traffic in Bangkok is intense but the motorcycle taxi's can go between cars and down streets that are to small for cars so they are the fastest way to get around. I was willing but a little uncomfortable about Maya and I splitting up and my inability to tell the driver where I wanted to go. Maya assured me she'd take care of that and she would take the second 'taxi' so she would be right behind me.

That lasted five seconds. Almost as soon as I got on behind the taxi driver and clutched him by the shoulders (I didn't want to seem to familiar with him by touching his waist) Maya's 'taxi' sped past us! As long as I could see her ahead of us it was ok but when the driver made a turn and went down a very narrow alley I was less serene. The ride was not long but I could not tell a person how many alleyways we traversed. Popping back on a main street the driver pulled over and pointed to a large building across the street - indicating that was where I was going. I paid him my 20 baht fare (maybe 65 cents) and he was gone. I looked up and down the street - both sides - no Maya.

I decided to cross the street and stand right next to the sign on the wall that did say Immigration and Detention Center in English. I was at the right place but maybe not the right entrance. There were no other non-Thai people in sight. Breathing deeply I resolved to stay right there until....I was arrested for loitering if necessary. Maya would find me...I just knew she would. I didn't know how to say Brett and Maya's address but Maya had written it, in Thai, in my little blue book that I had in my purse so I could flag down a taxi (not a motorcycle taxi!) and show him the page if I had to get home alone. Thank goodness for Maya's foresight!

Only a few minutes passed but it seemed like half and hour before I heard Maya's sweet voice saying, "There you are!" We were equally relieved! "I was having visions of having to tell Brett I lost his mother!" Maya wailed. As it turns out, my motorcycle taxi driver had driven incredibly slow - probably because I had his shoulders in a death grip - and Maya had been dropped off by her taxi several minutes before. She thought that I may have been dropped off at the corner or another entrance so she went looking for me and became more distressed with every passing minute.

Together, and not to be parted again, we proceeded to the check-in area.

DETENTION CENTER

An American named Becky was the organizer for the visitation and 14 people from all walks of life and many different countries were there to participate this Friday. The family Maya and I 'visited' where picked up for overstaying their Visa's in October. They had only the clothes they were wearing when they were picked up but they were grateful their two sons were with them at the time. Sometimes the parents are picked up and the children are not - creating additional distress to the situation as the children are left to depend on the charity of those around them when that happens. Maya had shopped quickly after we found out who we were visiting so we had gifts of meat, writing utensils, toiletries, sweets and my jacks for the kids that they would get after we left. The detention center supplies rice and vegetables period.

The visiting area was two open areas separated by chain link fences with a two foot gap between the two. Conversations had to be somewhat shouted back and forth. After visiting for a few minutes - they were from Sri Lanka and could speak English although so heavily accented I could not follow what they were saying- we indicated the packages that were for them and left so they could spend the rest of the visiting time with each other. They were very grateful for the items and for us coming. I pray for them - they could be there for up to two years and then still deported. I am glad my future daughter knew of such a good thing for us to do!

PARKS AND PAMPERING

In contrast to the bleakness we just left Maya and I stopped at the Life Center Shopping Mall and had cheese cake and iced mocha's on our way to spend a couple hours at a spa where I was going to experience a deluxe Thai massage.

During our coffee stop Maya and I got to know each other better by sharing about our families, past experiences and future plans. It was the best chat Maya and I had the entire trip!

Leaving the Mall we entered Lumphini Park. It is a beautiful park with two lakes and walking paths winding throughout. Maya told me this is where Brett usually ran when they lived in this part of Bangkok. We watched a man using two poles lashed together to reach the high branches of one of the trees to pull off some kind of pod. He offered us several of the pods and demonstrated how to eat the large white pea-like seeds inside. Each orb had a black seed inside it. Maya thanked him and we continued on our way munching the gift. They were not sweet but did not taste bad. Shortly afterward I broke out in a coughing fit that brought tears to my eyes and left me light headed. Sitting on a park bench I struggled to get my composure back and stop coughing. Offering me water Maya earnestly started questioning me, "Is your throat closing up?". After a few sips of water I was able to let her know I think they just got caught in my throat. We discussed the questionable wisdom of our eating unknown fruit plucked from a tree in a park and given to us by a stranger. We still do not know what it was we ate!

Another sky train ride and we were in the more touristy area of Sukhumvit Road where we walked to Relax @ 24 Spa. Two hours later we emerged from the spa in a post massage daze and wandered back towards the train station. Our two hour pampering cost about $55 each! I was called 'Madame' and treated so royally I felt uncomfortable! But it was wonderful.

When we'd nearly reached the train platform I realized I'd forgotten my watch at the Spa. Maya suggested we return to get it but she was unaware of the growing blister on the bottom of my foot. I assured her I would not miss my $19 Timex watch and insisted we NOT walk the 10 blocks back.

Since finding the spa and getting our massages had taken longer than we expected it was now nearly 5 pm. Both of us were hungry so we decided to go to a soup vendor across the street to get a bowl of soup to tide us over until dinner.

I gave Maya 'rush' number three for the day when I stepped out into the street in front of a motorbike. Mind you, I'd been watching Brett and Maya step out in front of cars, trucks and buses so I thought a motorbike was of no consequence. Grabbing my arm Maya jerked me back to the sidewalk with the instruction to NEVER step out in front of a motorcycle. Ok, Rule #1 was established.

Rule #2 came shortly afterward. Our noodle soup was delivered to us and an array of spices offered. Not knowing what to do I watched Maya and copied her choices. Five spoonfuls of the soup was all I could eat. Rule #2 - Do not spice food like Maya does. She likes everything SPICY.

The ride back home on the Sky Train was during rush hour and it was amazing. There was no shoving or pushing or nasty attitudes. The river of humanity poured in and out of the trains smoothly and peacefully.

STRAY DOGS

After a shower (you take at least two a day in Bangkok) Maya and I set off to meet Brett for dinner with some of Brett and Maya's friends at one of their favorite restaurants, Pla Dip.

During our walk to the one of the main roads where we could catch an auto taxi I witnessed how well Thai's treat stray dogs! Along the edge of the roadway, beneath a highway overpass, we passed several squares of white paper heaped with a mixture of rice and dry dog food. Several stray dogs were already eating their dinner but there was enough for many more. The only skinny dogs in Bangkok are old, sick ones ready to expire.

DINNER AT PLA DIP

What an extravaganza! We had duck con feti, real sushi, soft shelled crabs, wasabe mashed potatoes, chicken and pitchers of beer and water! Brett insisted I taste everything and I did! I really liked the duck and the wasabe mashed potatoes. I surprised myself and liked the soft shelled crab also!

It was a great treat to meet so many of Brett and Maya's friends! The infamous Marcus, Brett's best friend, was charming and not nearly as wild as I had imagined he would be. His lovely wife, Pascal, was tolerant of yet another night out. They had had company for a week and she had hoped for a night at home but they came out for "Brett's Mom's Dinner Party". Turned out Brett's co-worker, Steve, was from Reisterstown, Maryland - where I lived and went to high school! To meet the first person from that area since I'd left 34 years ago at a dinner party in Bangkok, Thailand was incredible. I caught up on what was still standing and what had changed in the three decades I'd been gone. All their friends are articulate, fun-loving people and I had a wonderful times chatting with them all. Maya and I shared our adventures of the day which kept everyone in stitches.

Our night ended after midnight again!