CRAZY COYOTE! I had a little excitement on my walk with the dogs today.

Since I've been home from Thailand I've been trying to keep up the habit of walking for a couple of hours each day. Although I walk a variety of places today I decided to take one of the old four-wheel drive roadways that run along the side of Hogback Mountain. After the initial 30 minute uphill section it is flat and runs across the side of the mountain which makes for easy walking and wonderful views of Klamath Falls, the lakes and Mt. Shasta. At the hour end of the walk we were high on the ridge and looking down on Old Fort Road.

For some reason I looked behind me and was surprized to see a coyote watching me and the dogs from about 50 feet higher up on the mountainside. He was about the same size as Jaycup, all grey with white fur around his eyes and yellow fur outlining his ears. I wasn't particularly alarmed but I looked around for others as friends have told me they are seldom alone and can be dangerous for dogs if there is a pack of them. Another 50 ft higher and some 60 yards back I spotted a smaller coyote making its way towards us. Scanning the rocky mountainside I could not see any others so I started walking backwards along the roadway while watching the coyote closest to us.

The coyote moved along paralell to us as if on his own path, watching me and Jaycup who was bounding around following scents in the sage brush as usual. When the coyote spotted Shiloh his ears came forward and he seemed to focus on her. Since I was taking so long to come up the roadway Shiloh had streached out in the shade of a juniper tree to wait for me. The coyote stopped directly above the tree and began making it's way down the hill towards her. Now I became a little concerned.

Calling Shiloh to me I took her ball and tossed it downhill and well ahead of where she had been lying down. Moving forward quickly to put some distance between the coyote and us I could see the wild one smelling the air and inspecting the spot our little spotted dog had been. Then he took up his trail again and trotted towards the shoulder of of the mountain.

That alone would have been enough excitement but our coyote interlude was not over.

Reaching the end of the roadway I decided to make the short scamble up to the ridge just above us to see what the view was of the other side. Jaycup and Shiloh romped up the hill faster than I did and disappeared over the top. As I crested the rise I saw Jaycup chasing the coyote through the small grassy field. They were both running flat out and were going to be out of sight in just a minute so I yelled for Jaycup to come as loud as I could. I'd also heard coyotes would lead a dog into an ambush and was afraid that might be what was going on!

Jaycup dutifully broke off the chase and peeled off to the right to return to me. The coyote immediately gave chase and as they sped between some sage bushes and rocks I heard Jaycup yelp. A moment later he was in the clear again, tail between his legs and ears flattened against his head as he made a beeline for me. The coyote paused in the open and then dug up the ground with his back feet. Declaring himself the winner?

I told Jaycup it is not a good idea to turn your back on a coyote and it didn't seem like Jaycup was any worse for the encounter but we immediately started back for the car. Periodically checking behind me to make sure the coyote wasn't following us down the mountain side I congradulated Jaycup for not getting hurt.

That was premature. It took an hour to get back to where I'd parked and by then Jaycup was limping noticably. The coyote had broken the skin on the inside of Jaycup's right leg at the elbow. A small patch of bloody fur marked the spot but he wouldn't let me see it. In the ten minutes it took for me to drive from Foothill Road to the house on Homedale I could tell Jaycup was hurting. He couldn't sit or lay down and was trying to balance on his three good legs on the seat.

After rinsing him off on the back patio I could tell there was a quarter sized wound but couldn't tell if there was muscles torn so off we went to the Vets.

Jaycup in now resting comfortably - a pain killer injection and a muzzle were needed to get him quiet enough to cut the ragged skin flap off, clean the wound and confirm no muscle or bone damage was done. Stocked with two weeks of antibiotics and pain killers I returned from my 'afternoon walk' more than a hundred bucks lighter!

Several women friends and I are supposed to hike to Lone Pine on Hogsback Mountain tomorrow. I will not be taking the dogs.

No more Hogback Mountain walks for these two dogs! Shiloh seemed totally oblivious the entire time to the presense of the coyote but then I had a ball so that isn't surprizing. The coyote was interested in her though!

February 27, 2010 - Day 4 A Day of Wat's

Brett and I spent Saturday touring the three most famous Wat's in Bangkok (Referred to as the holy trinity of Bangkok's early history)

Wat Pho (house of the Reclining Buddha)

The Reclining Buddha fills the entire building. Only a hallway around the edge if the figure remains for the people to walk around it. The soles of the feet of the Buddha are covered with mother-of-pearl depictions of the 108 different favorable lak-sa-na of a Buddha (characteristics of a Buddha). Although the core is brick covered with plaster the entire figure is finished in gold leaf!

Thailand is ornate to say the least and the Grand Palace grounds, which includes Wat Phra Kaew, is the most ornate of all. We hired a guide to take us around the grounds and tell us what we were seeing. She promptly supplied Brett with a 'proper' pair of pants - his jeans with the knees worn out did not pass muster. You'll recognized them - their dragon pants. Although it was in the 90's with about the same amount of humidity you will notice I have long pants and a sleeved shirt on. Shoulders and legs must be covered at Wat's.

Pictures of the Emerald Buddha were not allowed but the temple was full of golden buddha's surrounding the famous Emerald Buddha. It is really a single piece of carved jade not emerald and is housed so high up and behind so many other buddha statues that you can't really see the detail of the Buddha. He was wearing his multimillion dollar winter outfit. According to our guide he has three outfits, one for each season, which only royalty can handle. The Prince was coming the next day to change the emerald buddha's garb so we had come on the only day I would have been able to see the Palace grounds and the temple.

The Grand Palace is spectacular in size and splendor which is appropriate as it was the royal residence for many years. There are many more pictures of my time in Bangkok and of the different temples in my facebook 'Bangkok Feb 25-28' alblum.

Wat Arun was the oldest and most challenging of the wat's we visited. The 82 meter high prang (Khmer-style tower) is covered with mosaics made up of broken pieces of china! Back in the early 19th century, when the tower was built, ships from China that put into port here used tonnes of old, broken porcelain as ballast. They dumped the ballast when they filled their holds with merchandise. Using the multi-colored pieces the Thai's decorated almost every square inch of the Temple of Dawn.

The sound of temple bells will always remind me of Wat Arun. The wind off the river blew almost constantly and keep the bells tinkling. It added an extra fantasy quality to the temple grounds.

We climbed up the knee high steps to the balcony that goes around the tower and got to see Bangkok streaching out in all directions. It is a huge city! It was here, at Wat Arun, that I made my most useful purchase of my Thailand trip - a fan!

February 26, 2010 - Friday Day 3

Going to the Extremes in Bangkok

Maya had Mother watch on Friday. Brett had to stay home and attend to paperwork around getting enrolled in a program in Sussex, England so he and Maya can live together while she is getting her Masters Degree there. He also had to oversee the distribution of the belongings they had posted and sold over the Internet in preparation of their permanent departure from Thailand 10 days after my visit ends. Since the three of us will be traveling to different regions of Thailand for the majority of my stay the 4 days in Bangkok had to be used wisely.

So after breakfast at the little restaurant on Soi 6 Maya and I set off to participate in the refugee visit she'd asked me earlier if I would like to participate in. In anticipation of the visit I'd picked up a couple sets of jacks (a small rubber ball with 10 plastic 'jacks' that you try to sweep up between bouncing and catching the little ball.) to give to the children and use as a conversation piece. I thought we would be having lunch with them and giving them a chance to practice their English. It wasn't quite like that.

Anyway, we dash off to make the 10 a.m. sign-in time. After hoofing it to the train platforms we took two different Sky Trains in quick succession during which time Maya explains to me that we are going to the Bangkok Immigration Detention Center which is really jail for the people that have overstayed their Visa limitation. People come from countries experiencing bad economic or violent times on Tourist Visas with the hopes of gaining refugee status. Many do not get through the paperwork or are denied refugee status but they stay anyway. They have left Sri Lanka, Somalia and the other countries with no intention of returning and their home countries are aware they have filed for refugee status so returning will not be pleasant to say the least. The 'detention center' is segregated. Men and woman only see each other in the visiting area at such times that they each have a visitor. So we were going to sign in to visit a couple so they would have the opportunity to see and talk to one another...not so much us.

MOTORCYCLE TAXI

As we left the train platform Maya asked me how I felt about motorcycles. I told her I didn't have any problem with them and she explained we needed to take motorcycle taxi's to get to the Center in time. Traffic in Bangkok is intense but the motorcycle taxi's can go between cars and down streets that are to small for cars so they are the fastest way to get around. I was willing but a little uncomfortable about Maya and I splitting up and my inability to tell the driver where I wanted to go. Maya assured me she'd take care of that and she would take the second 'taxi' so she would be right behind me.

That lasted five seconds. Almost as soon as I got on behind the taxi driver and clutched him by the shoulders (I didn't want to seem to familiar with him by touching his waist) Maya's 'taxi' sped past us! As long as I could see her ahead of us it was ok but when the driver made a turn and went down a very narrow alley I was less serene. The ride was not long but I could not tell a person how many alleyways we traversed. Popping back on a main street the driver pulled over and pointed to a large building across the street - indicating that was where I was going. I paid him my 20 baht fare (maybe 65 cents) and he was gone. I looked up and down the street - both sides - no Maya.

I decided to cross the street and stand right next to the sign on the wall that did say Immigration and Detention Center in English. I was at the right place but maybe not the right entrance. There were no other non-Thai people in sight. Breathing deeply I resolved to stay right there until....I was arrested for loitering if necessary. Maya would find me...I just knew she would. I didn't know how to say Brett and Maya's address but Maya had written it, in Thai, in my little blue book that I had in my purse so I could flag down a taxi (not a motorcycle taxi!) and show him the page if I had to get home alone. Thank goodness for Maya's foresight!

Only a few minutes passed but it seemed like half and hour before I heard Maya's sweet voice saying, "There you are!" We were equally relieved! "I was having visions of having to tell Brett I lost his mother!" Maya wailed. As it turns out, my motorcycle taxi driver had driven incredibly slow - probably because I had his shoulders in a death grip - and Maya had been dropped off by her taxi several minutes before. She thought that I may have been dropped off at the corner or another entrance so she went looking for me and became more distressed with every passing minute.

Together, and not to be parted again, we proceeded to the check-in area.

DETENTION CENTER

An American named Becky was the organizer for the visitation and 14 people from all walks of life and many different countries were there to participate this Friday. The family Maya and I 'visited' where picked up for overstaying their Visa's in October. They had only the clothes they were wearing when they were picked up but they were grateful their two sons were with them at the time. Sometimes the parents are picked up and the children are not - creating additional distress to the situation as the children are left to depend on the charity of those around them when that happens. Maya had shopped quickly after we found out who we were visiting so we had gifts of meat, writing utensils, toiletries, sweets and my jacks for the kids that they would get after we left. The detention center supplies rice and vegetables period.

The visiting area was two open areas separated by chain link fences with a two foot gap between the two. Conversations had to be somewhat shouted back and forth. After visiting for a few minutes - they were from Sri Lanka and could speak English although so heavily accented I could not follow what they were saying- we indicated the packages that were for them and left so they could spend the rest of the visiting time with each other. They were very grateful for the items and for us coming. I pray for them - they could be there for up to two years and then still deported. I am glad my future daughter knew of such a good thing for us to do!

PARKS AND PAMPERING

In contrast to the bleakness we just left Maya and I stopped at the Life Center Shopping Mall and had cheese cake and iced mocha's on our way to spend a couple hours at a spa where I was going to experience a deluxe Thai massage.

During our coffee stop Maya and I got to know each other better by sharing about our families, past experiences and future plans. It was the best chat Maya and I had the entire trip!

Leaving the Mall we entered Lumphini Park. It is a beautiful park with two lakes and walking paths winding throughout. Maya told me this is where Brett usually ran when they lived in this part of Bangkok. We watched a man using two poles lashed together to reach the high branches of one of the trees to pull off some kind of pod. He offered us several of the pods and demonstrated how to eat the large white pea-like seeds inside. Each orb had a black seed inside it. Maya thanked him and we continued on our way munching the gift. They were not sweet but did not taste bad. Shortly afterward I broke out in a coughing fit that brought tears to my eyes and left me light headed. Sitting on a park bench I struggled to get my composure back and stop coughing. Offering me water Maya earnestly started questioning me, "Is your throat closing up?". After a few sips of water I was able to let her know I think they just got caught in my throat. We discussed the questionable wisdom of our eating unknown fruit plucked from a tree in a park and given to us by a stranger. We still do not know what it was we ate!

Another sky train ride and we were in the more touristy area of Sukhumvit Road where we walked to Relax @ 24 Spa. Two hours later we emerged from the spa in a post massage daze and wandered back towards the train station. Our two hour pampering cost about $55 each! I was called 'Madame' and treated so royally I felt uncomfortable! But it was wonderful.

When we'd nearly reached the train platform I realized I'd forgotten my watch at the Spa. Maya suggested we return to get it but she was unaware of the growing blister on the bottom of my foot. I assured her I would not miss my $19 Timex watch and insisted we NOT walk the 10 blocks back.

Since finding the spa and getting our massages had taken longer than we expected it was now nearly 5 pm. Both of us were hungry so we decided to go to a soup vendor across the street to get a bowl of soup to tide us over until dinner.

I gave Maya 'rush' number three for the day when I stepped out into the street in front of a motorbike. Mind you, I'd been watching Brett and Maya step out in front of cars, trucks and buses so I thought a motorbike was of no consequence. Grabbing my arm Maya jerked me back to the sidewalk with the instruction to NEVER step out in front of a motorcycle. Ok, Rule #1 was established.

Rule #2 came shortly afterward. Our noodle soup was delivered to us and an array of spices offered. Not knowing what to do I watched Maya and copied her choices. Five spoonfuls of the soup was all I could eat. Rule #2 - Do not spice food like Maya does. She likes everything SPICY.

The ride back home on the Sky Train was during rush hour and it was amazing. There was no shoving or pushing or nasty attitudes. The river of humanity poured in and out of the trains smoothly and peacefully.

STRAY DOGS

After a shower (you take at least two a day in Bangkok) Maya and I set off to meet Brett for dinner with some of Brett and Maya's friends at one of their favorite restaurants, Pla Dip.

During our walk to the one of the main roads where we could catch an auto taxi I witnessed how well Thai's treat stray dogs! Along the edge of the roadway, beneath a highway overpass, we passed several squares of white paper heaped with a mixture of rice and dry dog food. Several stray dogs were already eating their dinner but there was enough for many more. The only skinny dogs in Bangkok are old, sick ones ready to expire.

DINNER AT PLA DIP

What an extravaganza! We had duck con feti, real sushi, soft shelled crabs, wasabe mashed potatoes, chicken and pitchers of beer and water! Brett insisted I taste everything and I did! I really liked the duck and the wasabe mashed potatoes. I surprised myself and liked the soft shelled crab also!

It was a great treat to meet so many of Brett and Maya's friends! The infamous Marcus, Brett's best friend, was charming and not nearly as wild as I had imagined he would be. His lovely wife, Pascal, was tolerant of yet another night out. They had had company for a week and she had hoped for a night at home but they came out for "Brett's Mom's Dinner Party". Turned out Brett's co-worker, Steve, was from Reisterstown, Maryland - where I lived and went to high school! To meet the first person from that area since I'd left 34 years ago at a dinner party in Bangkok, Thailand was incredible. I caught up on what was still standing and what had changed in the three decades I'd been gone. All their friends are articulate, fun-loving people and I had a wonderful times chatting with them all. Maya and I shared our adventures of the day which kept everyone in stitches.

Our night ended after midnight again!

Thursday - Day 2 in Bangkok (con't)

I absolutely do not understand why they outlawed the fish foot spas in the US.

Seems like it is a win-win deal!

It was a nice way to treat your feet after walking on the hot streets of Bangkok!

We went on to purchase the tickets to the most awesome theatrical show I've seen since seeing The Phantom of the Opera in San Francisco many years ago!

One of the things I really wanted to see while in Thailand was traditional Thai dancing. I had read in the Lonely Planet Thailand book about a demonstration given at one of the temples but Brett and Maya treated me to Siam Niramit! We could not take pictures of the production but some of the actors were available to pose for pictures afterward which is what you see here. These are full grown Thai dancers! You can understand why I didn't find much in the way of clothes I could buy in Thailand!

The show itself was wonderful. Three 'acts' contained all the types of Thai dancing I'd seen in the movies, on the internet and read about. The costumes were beyond description and the elegance of the dancers spellbinding. If a person knows the legends, myths and history of Thailand I am sure it would be even more meaningful but the pageantry was spectacular enough to mesmerize a farang like me. The scale of the show is epitomized by elephants, decked out in full royal regalia and carrying the "Princess and Prince" walked through the wide isle between the upper and lower decks of seats as part of a royal procession. Special effects were incredible.

The link for Siam Niramit takes a minute or so to load but you will get a real glimpse of what the show is like for your patience! Be sure to have your speakers on ... but not to high!

The three of us also toured the "village" area and Maya said they were pretty accurate reconstructions of the different hill tribe architecture. I saw my first little rice pattie there!

The night was magical for me. I am very grateful Brett and Maya knew to take me to see it!

Thursday night ended with a comfortable taxi ride back to our garden spot between Soi 4 and Soi 6.

It was a spectacular full first day in Thailand.